The chic Surrey Center restaurant has long been a favorite, but a recent visit surpassed expectations.

The menu, which changes seasonally, is pricey (this is fine dining at its finest, folks), but the wine analogy applies here, too: You get what you pay for. What you get at Bistro 491 is soothing ambience, impeccable service and food that leaves lasting, luscious memories.

The cuisine spans the globe, and the sure-footed chef adds distinctive touches to everything. An incredible wine list, equally intercontinental, includes offerings by the glass, half-bottle and full bottle. (A full bar adjoins the dining room.)

Appetizers - substantial and mouth-watering enough to double as entrees - include beef, seafood, soups and salads. We chose Escargot Vol au Vent ($8) and the Soup of Yesterday ($5), prepared in advance so the flavors can blend optimally. The escargot was prepared with goat cheese, red wine and herbs, a medley of interesting and complementary flavors. The soup, roasted fennel with shallots, was as rich and velvety as cashmere.

Entrees include pasta, fish, beef, chicken, venison, pork and lamb. All are served with fresh bread, individually selected accompaniments and a house salad (mesclun greens, diced beets and a vinaigrette dressing).

We chose a Caesar salad, a glorious combination of romaine lettuce and anchovies topped with a baked Parmesan chip in place of croutons.

Our entree choices were goat cheese and artichoke ravioli ($24) and cedar planked Atlantic salmon ($19). Both were beautifully presented and served on oversize plates.

The ravioli was served with braised shortribs dredged in parsley, lemon zest and garlic. The salmon had an applewood-smoked bacon crust, served with white bean and baby spinach ragout. Both entrees were melt-in-your-mouth tender and memorably delicious.

The dessert menu includes dessert wines, three ports and a 15-year-old sherry. We passed on the libations but were weak-kneed at the prospect of the confections. The vanilla bean creme brulee and chocolate Bing cherry bread pudding ($7 each) were as creative, gorgeous and sumptuous as every other part of our meal.

As for clutter, puhleeze. The Bistro wouldn't hear of it.

And as for constructive criticism, we're stumped. Quite simply, we wouldn't change a thing.

The Eatery: Bistro 491, 491 Highland Ave. (map)

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Phone: (706) 738-6491

The Verdict: Eclectic food incredibly prepared. 5 out of 5 stars.