A mound of popcorn shrimp neatly lies on top of several hush puppies and a load of French fries. The plate is so full that the waitress can't even complete the dish with the traditional side of coleslaw.

This is the kind of lunch you can expect at Harbor Inn. The Wrightsboro Road restaurant has become known for its quantity, quality and low cost of seafood, not to mention how fast it's brought to you.

The lunch menu features daily specials. Trout, baby shrimp and stuffed clams are available each day as specials for $5.25. Weekday specials cost $3.95 and include fillet of perch and baby shrimp on Tuesday; fillet of flounder on Wednesday; fillet of trout and baby shrimp on Thursday, and baby shrimp on Friday. There's also a fried seafood platter ($6.25), which includes a fillet of flounder, deviled crab, baby shrimp and fried oysters.

I visited one recent Friday for lunch and ordered the baby shrimp special. I've ordered this dish before, and I'm impressed every time with the amount of food I get. Everything is delicious, but I especially like the hush puppies. They aren't made with onions or any extras - it's strictly the cornbread batter that makes them so good.

Harbor Inn also serves broiled flounder, perch, cod, trout, white fish, eight-ounce ribeye steak, chopped sirloin with mushroom sauce and boneless chicken breast. Appetizers include clam chowder, oyster stew, shrimp cocktail, oyster cocktail and onion rings. Salads, cold plates and sandwiches are also available.

A menu of fried seafood includes catfish, deviled crab, oysters, clam strips, jumbo shrimp, baby shrimp, crab cakes, chicken fingers and scallops. For dessert, you have a choice of apple, pecan or key lime pie. The dinner menu also features specials, a wider variety of broiled combination platters and a children's plate menu.

As you eat, enjoy the casual environment and check out the collection of sea items on the walls. Although the restaurant is fast-paced and a little noisy, you'll enjoy your meal.

When you go, be sure and save a few hush puppies to take back to work. You're going to want your co-workers to sample them. Spread the goodness. And don't be in a rush - you'll have plenty of time to have a relaxing meal on your lunch break.

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UNDER THE SEA

The Eatery: Harbor Inn, 3404 Wrightsboro Road (map)

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Ambiance: Casual and fast-paced

Cost: 40 cents to $10.50

Rating: 3 1/2 out of 5

Phone: 729-0187

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