Taj of India, on Jenkins Street off Walton Way, is a prime example. The cozy little eatery is frill-free and relatively sparse - just a few small tables with dashes of Indian art. But the flavors offered within those walls reflect the tastes and traditions of an exotic land.

Taj of India has a dinner menu and a lunch buffet. We tried the buffet and are still marveling at the array of flavors and textures. The aroma of curry - a seasoning used liberally in Indian cooking - wafts through the restaurant. But although the spice is predominant, it is only one of many used to bathe every bite of Indian food in flavor. Dinner entrees can be tailored to mild, medium and spicy-hot tastes; the buffet aims for the middle ground.

During our visit, the buffet ($6.95) included chicken curry, chicken saag (a pureed spinach dish), mixed vegetables (peas, carrots, corn and other vegetables cooked in herbs and spices), dal makhni (black lentils with herbs and spices, sauteed in butter and garnished with fresh coriander), two potato dishes and basmatic rice (finer and more delicate than long-grain white rice). The buffet also offered fresh fruit, tossed salad and several dipping sauces, including yogurt/cucumber, curry and pickle. Papadam (crispy, spicy lentil wafers) and naan (unleavened bread) were served at the table.

We were a bit surprised that chicken was the only meat featured on the buffet, but the dishes were distinctive and tasty. The restaurant did an excellent job maintaining the integrity of individual ingredients amid the hodgepodge of a buffet. For instance, the potatoes and other vegetables were perfectly cooked. (Overcooking, or uneven cooking, is generally the rule we've observed at buffets.) The chicken was tender, and the sauces were hearty and bold. We particularly liked the tomato-based sauce featured in one of the potato dishes. (Potatoes in a tomato sauce? Trust us, it was great.)

We have to admit that the flavors of Taj are too heavily seasoned to suit our everyday tastes. But Taj has many regulars who have apparently banned the bland. How adventurous are your taste buds? Head to Taj and find out.

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ON THE TOWN

The Place: Taj of India, 1702 Jenkins St. (map)

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday-Saturday

The Verdict: Taj of India will curry favor with adventurous diners

Rating: 3 1/2 out of 5 stars.

Phone: (706) 738-8537

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Mary Deriso is the retired general manager of the Pinnacle Club, a private dining club in Augusta. Christine Hurley Deriso is a writer whose children's book, Dreams to Grow On, is available at www.Amazon.com.