When I moved to Augusta almost 20 years ago, the culinary scene was almost as barren as the many vacant buildings that dotted Broad Street at the time.

But just as downtown Augusta has surged with new signs of vitality, the restaurant business has become one of the city's most tasteful points of pride. Looking for good home cooking? We've got it. Hungry for more cosmopolitan fare? Got that, too. So whether you're a visitor to the city or an old-timer who somehow overlooked Augusta's culinary makeover, let's lift the curtain on five of Augusta's best restaurants:

Old Edgefield Grill: Yes, it's half an hour off the beaten path, but the pastoral country road that leads to this South Carolina gem is only the beginning of the sublime experience that awaits its diners. The chef adds understated panache to beef, seafood, chicken and game. Full review

Café 209: Also downtown and one of the best values you'll find anywhere, this soul-food restaurant beckons the Southerner in all of us. Full review

Bistro 491: With incredible attention to detail, this Surrey Center jewel offers a truly memorable dining experience. (Try the soup of yesterday.) Full review

T's: One of the city's oldest restaurants, this south Augusta seafood restaurant puts the heart in hearty. The catfish and boatload salad bar are among my favorite offerings. Full review

Aiken Brewing Company: Like Old Edgefield Grill, this one is worth the short drive to a charming neighboring city. Aiken, S.C., was once one of the world's most sought-after winter destinations. This restaurant will help convince you why. Full review