Apple pie, Fourth of July and Mom -- I can't say anything bad about them or the Sunshine Bakery.

The Sunshine Bakery 1209 Room has been around longer than I have, serving the same quality deli food on its famous sourdough bread in the same location for 50 years.

A trip to Sunshine is like a visit to any good deli in New York City. People come for sustenance, not to be entertained or stimulated. You eat good food on plastic dishes -- no garnish, no frills.

There are no pretensions here. The staff is courteous, the atmosphere friendly and the food fresh, straightforward and fast.

Even when it's crowded, one can get in and out quickly. Perhaps that's why there are always so many business people there. Sunshine Bakery attracts little old ladies and couples of all ages -- a pleasant mixture.

Prices are as basic as the food. The 1209 Special (1209 referring not only to the address on Broad Street but also to the ``special'' sauce topping several sandwiches) is a bargain at $3.95. The hot pastrami and turkey sandwich on sourdough bread is topped with Russian dressing and served with the soup of the day (for Tuesday, split pea). The sandwich arrives on a plastic plate with no garnish or unnecessary ``fluff,'' making it easy to know what you're eating.

The $5.50 Ruben is loaded with corned beef, salami (a variation I'm not familiar with, but nevertheless appetizing), sauerkraut and Gruyere (a Swiss cheese) on sourdough. It is served with a cup of soup, and Thousand Island dressing can be served on the side. I also ordered German potato salad, which was served really cold. I'm sure that's good for health reasons, but I think sometimes the chill takes away from the flavor.

Desserts from the bakery include cheesecake, cookies, brownies, napoleons and eclairs. If you're looking for gooey, you may opt for the napoleon: crisp layers of puff pastry filled with cream and glazed with a thin icing. The eclair is easier to eat -- not one of the messiest I've had, but satisfying.

Sunshine Bakery has outlived some old Augusta traditions. It has survived the flight of many businesses from downtown, the proliferation of chain restaurants in all corners of the city, and the trend toward entertainment in dining. It remains a steadfast tribute to good food at reasonable prices.

Where: 1209 Broad St, Augusta (map)